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Big Quilcene Trail #833 to Marmot Pass

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This trail is one of those magical gateways into a fairy book land that is actually real. You dive deep into a majestic forest from the trailhead. The climb is steady and steep so make sure you have a lot of water and your favorite energy snacks.

The towering old growth create a thick canopy high above you, but specific rays of sun are able to break through and highlight certain trees, flowers and enchanted little stopping places that look like a perfect place for a picnic and a meaningful chat.  You will be tired enough from the climb to want to stop and take a nice long nap, but don’t. The story this trail tells gets better and better all the way up to the point you decide to stop.

The rushing Big Quilcene River keeps you company during most of the lower half of the climb. Don’t ignore her refreshing little vistas. Set your pace so that you can pause and enjoy the peaceful views.  You will have to set your mind to appreciating this little river because the climb constantly reaches out to consume your attention.

The pine needle covered soft and sometimes rocky trail winds its way up for two and a half miles through amazing green life either covering or shooting up through the forest floor. We stop and rest for a bit at the Shelter Rock Camp, about two and a half miles up.

To see more pictures of this trail and river check out the Gallery, Big Quilcene Trail – River.

The captivating trail starts reaching higher and higher quickly through smaller thin pines as if it’s trying to get above tree line in a hurry. The upper stretch of the trail is just as beautiful as the lower river-side section, but in too many different ways to try to explain in just one breath.

You will climb harder on this part of the trail, but then it will kindly level off for a few minutes and wind you around a corner that all of a sudden opens up wide with amazing views of the mountains and a sweet fragrance from the wildflowers.

I always slow my pace and enjoy the beauty in front of me. As much as I love the vibrant lush forest, I love the high ridgelines and mountains so much more.  I love the relaxing alpine wildflower meadows buzzing with various bees and insects just minding their own business as I walk through their personal garden. I love the majestic rock cliffs and peaks that tower into the sky as if they were standing guard over the wilderness itself. And, I love to be able to look down into the valley and watch the sea of clouds ebb and flow over the lowlands. The alpine beauty is simply astounding.

To see more pictures of the mountains, please check out the Gallery, Big Quilcene Trail – Mountains.

After what seems like a very long and steep two mile climb the trail finally leads you into Camp Mystery. Most of the hikers are relieved at this point because their legs are spent and they finally made it to their base camp destination. An important reason why Camp Mystery is so popular is because it’s the last available water for miles.

This camp is usually busy with a variety of campers from a wide range of ages and background going here and there for all the various important camping reasons. At night you can fall asleep to the tent chatter on the left or the snoring on the right.

The undiscriminating trail crosses the water naturally flowing from an underground spring and continues to climb through a magnificent wildflower meadow.  After a few short switchbacks, you rise up to a large bowl shaped meadow full of whistling marmots.  There are several more private camping spots in the clumps of trees in the meadow and around its perimeter.

The trail continues around the meadow to Marmot Pass. Standing at 6000 feet and after five and a half miles of climbing the views are worth the every step, the cool breeze is refreshing and the marmots singing out to each other bring a smile to your face.

Marmot Pass

After Marmot Pass, we continue the climb up a little trail on the south ridgeline of the bowl for a half mile to another flat little knoll that looks like it was especially crafted for us crazy hikers who want to camp alone way up high on the edge the world.

The views up here are breathtaking. You can watch the sun rise over the Puget Sound and set over the stunning jagged mountain peaks. Mount Buckhorn stands quietly to the north and more beautiful snowcapped ridgelines to the south.  A sharp eye can usually find mountain goat following their own trails on top of the rocks jetting into the sky and peaceful deer grazing on the valley slopes below.

The relentless climb taxed the kids’ energy and they went right to bed after watching the sunset with me. The puppies didn’t peep a sound and just followed the kids to bed leaving me to enjoy the stars shinning through the dark night sky by myself. I toasted the first shooting star in celebration of our successful ascent and I finally lost count as my eyes closed for the final time that night.

1st Sunset

Early the next morning I quickly climbed up on a large rock and watched the sun rise with my extra dark french press coffee. This was my early morning routine for the whole trip and as much as I love this little habit of mine, I will not continue to bore you with repetitive details.

To see all the sunrise and sunset pics, take a look at the Gallery, Big Quilcene Trail Sunset – Sunrise.

I love quietly sitting in that peaceful transition from darkness to the birds singing their lovely morning songs. That atmosphere just feels like the best environment to think clearly about some of my best thoughts and meditate on how to bring those thoughts to everyday life.

Redefining old patterns and creating a new normal is hard work. So, after a couple hours of grappling I take a short nap until the kids start rustling around in their tents and the need for breakfast is too great to stay in their warm sleeping bags.

On the second day, I like to keep the adventures pretty low impact because most of the legs are still tired and a little sore from the grueling climb up to our base camp. We hiked north around Buckhorn Mountain to Buckhorn Pass and explored several sweet meadows full of wildflowers, bees, grasshoppers and hummingbirds. Before we knew it, the day was ending and we had to get back to camp for dinner and the sunset. The kids’ routine is to play games after the sun sets. A lot of times I play with them late into the night, but then sometimes I let them play while I sit and watch the stars prick holes through the black night sky.

To see all the wildflower shots, take a look at the Gallery, Big Quilcene Trail – Wildflowers.

The morning of the third day was full of excitement and expectation as we finished up breakfast. We were going on a great adventure down to an old WWII plane crash wreckage.  We followed the Tubal Cain Mine Trail #840 around Mount Buckhorn, past Buckhorn Pass and down to Buckhorn Lake for a quick break. The kids all jumped into the ice cold water, we had a great time, a snack and then we continued on our journey switchbacking down the steep valley wall to Copper Creek.  This part of the trail leads us through amazing wildflower displays and spectacular views of the mountain peaks.

Buckhorn Lake

After we crossed Copper Creek, it seemed like the trail magically dropped us into a different world of mystically large old growth trees, rain forest moss and deep green life filling the forest spontaneously.  The trail softened and acted like it wanted to lead us. The sweet smell of warm pitch hung in the air at times and at one point, we stopped just to admire the beauty of this enchanted little forest before we hiked on.  We finally arrived at the old mine shaft on the uphill side of the trail and then we scrambled up the way trail #841 to the Tull Canyon where the plane wreckage still sits like it’s proud to have hikers climb up to see it.

To see pictures of the plane crash and the overall trip to the lake, see the Gallery, Big Quilcene Trail – Buckhorn Lake Trip.

On the way back to base camp, one of my sons spotted a shiny black bear devouring berries down in a particular valley. We all watched it ravage the small patch until the search eventually led it back into the trees. As we were eating our dinner, I was so proud of the kids for strongly completing a 17 mile day full of lifelong memories. And, I was so happy for them to be able to top it off by seeing a live bear out in the wild.

Bear Pic

On the fourth day we took it easy, relaxed and hiked down to the Boulder Shelter. The shelter was full and hikers were camping all around it. It was an enjoyable little day hike full of a lot of talking.  One of the best things I heard, “Dad, when I move out I still want to hang out with you.”  So awesome.

Boulder Shelter

I explained a little about bear eating patterns and suggested that we show up on the edge of the valley wall again at the same time we noticed the bear last night to see if it would put on a show for us again. It did indeed! We watched that bear eat berries, tear apart old logs for the bugs and explore for more food the last three nights we were up there. A fantastic experience.

Our last big adventure led us up the trail to the top of Buckhorn Mountain.  It was a fairly clear day and the views were magnificent: the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the Puget Sound, Canada, all the mountain peaks and the vast display of white capped ridgelines that ripple across the Olympics for as far as you can see.  We stretched out on the highest rocks, relaxed and enjoyed the peaceful time. We were not in a hurry to get anywhere so we just sat and talked.

Top of Buckhorn Mountain

Throughout the whole trip other adult hikers commented on how awesome it was to backpack with my kids. I was disappointed that we didn’t see other kids backpacking up such a beautiful trail. On our first day we passed a couple with two babies playing in a meadow and we cheered, congratulating the parents for bringing their kids up the mountain. They smiled and quietly waved.  On the way back down we passed a couple taking their kids up the trail for a day hike. I congratulated them too. I think we need more kids up in the mountains experiencing wonderful backpacking adventures with their parents.Awesome Kids!!!

What do you think?

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